Wool
Production Basics
Melanie Barkley, Bedford
County Extension Agent
Wool
production begins with several basic concepts. Along with the fiber
diameter, the fiber length, and the amount of vegetable matter and
any other foreign material in the fleece affect wool quality. Fiber
diameter varies by breeds of sheep and is used to determine the
use of the wool. Wool made up of smaller diameter fibers or fine
wool is used for clothing while wool made up of larger diameter
fibers or coarse wool is used for carpets and rugs. Below are more
details about wool production and wool quality.
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Wool
Yield
As
wool comes off the sheep it is called grease wool. This
is because the lanolin in the wool gives it a greasy feel
and appearance. This wool also contains vegetable matter,
dirt, and other impurities. Wool goes through a scouring
process to remove the grease, dirt and other impurities,
and a carbonization process to remove vegetable matter .
The difference between the grease wool weight and the clean
weight is the yield. In general, fine wool fleeces have
a lower yield than medium and coarse wool fleeces. Much
of this also depends on the amount of grease in the fleece.
Expected yields range from 45% to 70%.
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Fiber Diameter
Fiber
diameter is probably the most important factor for determining
the quality of wool and its value. As the fiber diameter increases,
it changes the way wool is used. Larger diameter fibers do not
work well in the felting process, but because they are stronger
and less likely to break during the carding and combing process,
they are very well suited for carpets and rugs. Small diameter
fibers or fine wool are best suited for clothing and textiles.
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Fiber diameter is used to determine the wool grade. The American
system began by visually appraising the wool fibers. This system
is known by the blood grade because it starts with the Merino
breed and the wool from other breeds is graded according to the
percentage of Merino in the breed. Table 1 shows the various wool
grades using both the American Blood Grade system and the ASTM
(American Society for Testing and Materials) standard grade. The
number corresponding to the ASTM grade related to the number of
560 yard lengths of yarn that can be spun from one pound of top
(clean wool).
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Table 1
Wool Grades
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American
Blood Grade
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ASTM
Grade
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Ranger
for Average Fiber Diameter (micrometers)
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Maximum
Standard Deviation (micrometers)
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Fine
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Finer
than
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80s
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Under
17.70
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3.59
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80s
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17.70
to 19.14
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4.09
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70s
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19.15
to 20.59
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4.59
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64s
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20.60
to 22.04
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5.19
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Half
blood
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62s
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22.05
to 23.49
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5.89
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60s
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23.50
to 24.94
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6.49
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Three-eighths
blood
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58s
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24.95
to 26.39
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7.09
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56s
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26.40
to 27.84
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7.59
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Quarter
blood
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54s
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27.85
to 29.29
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8.19
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50s
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29.30
to 30.99
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8.69
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Low
quarter blood
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48s
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31.00
to 32.69
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9.09
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46s
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32.70
to 34.39
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9.59
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Common
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44s
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34.40
to 36.19
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10.09
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40s
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36.20
to 38.09
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10.69
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Braid
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36s
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38.10
to 40.20
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11.19
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Coarser
than 36s
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Over
40.20
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Crimp
is another wool characteristic highly related to fiber diameter.
Crimp is the waviness of the wool. High-crimp wools that are
very uniform are normally the higher quality wools. However,
wool with too much crimp can cause problems in the processing
the same as wools with very little crimp. Low-crimp wools
tend to tangle and felt during scouring while high crimp wools
can form balls or neps during carding and combing. |
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Vegetable
Matter
Vegetable
matter in wool comes from feed particles as well as burs,
seeds, twigs, leaves, and grasses. Vegetable matter is removed
from a fleece using a process called scouring. A certain
amount of vegetable matter is expected in wool, however,
an excessive amount is considered a defect and the wool
may be discounted in price.
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Several
ways to minimize the amount of vegetable matter in wool include
the following: removing belly wool, wool on the top of the head
and around the cheeks, and removing manure clumps or tags. Carefully
feeding sheep to prevent contamination can also decrease the amount
of vegetable matter in the wool.
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Fiber
Length and Strength
The
staple or fiber length affects how the wool can be used.
Very short fibers are used in the felting process. There
are three classes of staple length: staple, French combing
and clothing. The length of the wool fiber has a direct
effect on spinning speed, yarn count and yarn quality. While
there are no official specifications for fiber length, the
American Sheep Industry Directory suggests the following
in Table 2.
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Table 2
Staple Length Requirements by Grade
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Grade
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Staple
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French
Combing
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Clothing
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64/70s
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2
3/4" and longer
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1
1/4 " to 2 3/4"
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Less
than 1 1/4"
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60/62s
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3"
and longer
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1
1/2" to 3"
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Less
than 1 1/2"
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56/58s
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3
1/4" and longer
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2
1/4" to 3 1/4"
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Less
than 2 1/4"
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50/54s
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3
1/2" and longer
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Less
than 3 1/2"
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46/48s
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4"
and longer
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Less
than 4"
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36/40/44s
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5"
and longer
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Less
than 5"
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Taken from American Sheep Industry Directory
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The
strength of fibers is also important. A change in the nutrition
or health of sheep can affect the strength of a wool fiber. The
strength of the individual fibers will then affect the strength
of the yarns. Weak fibers that break during processing can also
increase the number of noils or short fibers. Fibers that break
will then increase the amount of waste during processing. The position
of the break in the fibers is also important because a break in
the middle has a larger impact on how the fiber can be used than
if that break is near the end of the fiber. You can check the strength
of fibers by pulling a small amount of wool from a fleece and pulling
sharply several times. If the fibers break, you obviously have weak
fibers.
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Fiber
Color
The
whiteness of wool is very important if the fibers are not expected
to be dyed or will be dyed a light color. Very white wool fleeces
come from fleeces that have been skirted to remove any urine or
feces stained wool. Producers who wish to market a very high quality
wool keep their sheep covered year-round to prevent contamination
and discoloration of the wool. The presence of colored fibers
in wool has an affect on the price of that wool also due to limiting
the uses for the wool. These
fibers can come from the sheep themselves, either dark fibers
in the wool or from head, belly or legs. They may also come from
stained wools. Colored wools from natural colored sheep are generally
a specialized market for people who spin or weave by hand. Sold
to a mainstream market, these wools are discounted because of
their limited use in the dying process.
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Cotted
or Felted Fleeces
Occasionally,
the wool fibers may become matted or felted together. This occurs
when fine fibers have very little crimp. Cotted or felted fleeces
are considered low quality because of the amount of waste produced
during carding due to breaking the fibers when they are torn apart.
Fine wool sheep that have very little crimp should be culled.
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Improving Wool Quality
Wool quality can be
affected by genetic and environmental influences. Genetic influences
would be to select sheep with higher quality wool, while environmental
influences might include nutrition, sheep management, and shearing
management.
Genetic selection should
consider which traits are more heritable or more likely to pass
to the lambs. Traits that are highly heritable include variation
in fiber diameter, face covering, staple legnth, crimps and skin
folds. Traits that are moderately heritable include fleece weight,
clean wool yield, fiber diameter, and fiber density. Another factor
that relates to wool production is body weight because larger
sheep have more surface area to produce wool. Thus, large sheep
produce more wool than small sheep.
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The environment can
influence wool quality in a number of ways. First is the nutrition
of the sheep. Ewes tend to be stressed during the last third of
their pregnancy and while nursing lambs. This has a direct effect
on the fiber diameter that is being produced. As the nutritional
level of the ewe meets her needs or is above what her needs are,
the fiber diameter remains constant. As the ewe becomes stressed
in the latter stages of pregnancy and after lambing, that fiber
diameter may decrease which creates weak areas that are susceptible
to breaking. Two ways to minimiize a decrease in wool quality
are to make sure ewes are eating a ration that meet their needs
and to shear ewes prior to lambing. If the fibers do have weak
areas, the weakness is closer to an end of the fiber than if the
ewes had long wool at lambing and weren't sheared until after
weaning. It is also a good practice to have ewes in short wool
at lambing time as lambs are less likely to suckle wool tags instead
of the teat.
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As mentioned previously,
feeding management will affect the quality of wool if large amounts
of feed contaminate the wool. Feeders should be low enough for
sheep to eat without pulling hay down on top of their heads. Also,
when feeding avoid throwing hay over the backs of the sheep.
In addition to what
the animals eat is the consideration of bedding materials. Animals
should be bedded often enough to keep them clean. In addition,
use materials that are clean, dry, and free from dust. Another
consideration, especially if you use straw, is to look for weed
seeds that will stick in the wool such as burdock.
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Summary
comments
Wool production is
often overlooked in many operations. For the average person marketing
their wool through a wool pool, special considerations for wool
production may not be warrented. However, if you are raising wool
sheep with high quality wool, you will want to take every precaution
you can to maintain the highest quality of wool possible. When
you find the correct market, wool production can be quite profitable.
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